I could use some input from those of you running the CR's, please. Mine are newly installed on my 836 bike. I've done a lot of carburretor tuning over the years, but this set-up has me puzzled. They are fresh out of the box and have the K&N's installed that are sold with them. I started it up and rode it Saturday for the first time since the rods, studs, and chain upgrades. I only rode it 10 miles as rain was going to happen - just wasnt sure when. Yesterday I rode some more to check for leaks and bring it up to temps, then to check for idle adjustments at the air screw and idle speed. - rode a little better. Here is the deal - These only have about a 1/3 throttle turn from fully closed to fully opened, so metering the throttle is quite a bit more delicate than stock. The carbs will not allow any 'quick' throttle opening. If you twist the throttle open at low, middle, or anywhere before 7,000 - the huge air signal is dry and therefor causes the motor to die momentarily. If you twist it open at 7,000, you get a few blubbers (rich), but it quickly goes into it's hardest and most exciting pull of it's range. If these transitions in throttle are made moderately - then it never has a dead spot, lean spit, or rich blubbering. This makes me thing the jetting is ok. I also measured cylinder head temps throughout the ride to confirm I wasn't melting something. Normally a problem like this - I'd raise the needle clip to cure what would be a dead spot in the middle and a lean spit, then drop the mains by 1 size to cure a rich condition that persisted regardless of application. Here I can get low, middle, high perfomnace from each circuit as -is, but you can't open the throttle before the engine can use it. On a regular carb - I'd never be able to transition through it. I would say an acellerator pump is designed to cure such problems on autos. They squirt about 5cc of raw gas into the intake manifold when the pedal is floored to help cure the exact symptom. Am I missing something about tuniing the CR's or am I finding something that is to be lived with and expected? Or is there a cure? Thanks, Gordon. Jim, thanks for the confirmation of jetting. With the exception of the 230 air-jet, yours has all of the jetting of a 33mm. I would think they all use the same carb, just a larger bore in the venturi - the outside dimensions would be the same. I know Mike's are 31's and from the outside look identical. By the way, mine are 120 mains, 60 pilots, 250 air jet, Y8 needle in the 4th position, air screw likes 1/2 turn out - no more else it lean spits. I called and spoke with Sudco. They gave me some information - Some I didn't want to hear 1) They haven't yet written any instructions for tuning nor put together a tuning guide for the Keihin carburettors. 2) My result is about right for a performance carb. It can't react suddenly to change and they have developed the FCR's with a fuel pump to address this problem. I should replace my throttle or transition slower when going from part to full throttle as signal will be lost. I re-read my Sudco Mikuni tuning manual this weekend and I'm not going to follow it's instruction either. It states to run the main jet giving the highest top speed in top gear - then go up 1 size for safety. I don't have the nads to go full-out. ILbikes, I am guessing here, but the problems you are experiencing may be caused by simple misconfigurations. From your photo, it looks like your CR carbs are aligned at a slight downward angle. I believe it is necessary to have your carbs as close to perfectly level as possible otherwise, your float level will not be correct. Your throttle cables must be the incorrect size. Keihin Carburetors, Keihin Jets, Keihin FCR, Keihin PWK. CRS Special: Round Slide Carburetor for 4 stroke engines. CR Smoothbore carb's for Kawasaki Ninja 250R. You should have much more than 1/3 of turn on your throttle. Your CRs are problematic because they are not fully closing or opening. I noticed that you have the Dyna 2000 ignition. Be sure that you have the timing correct and the advance curve set correctly. Art, actually the venturis are in perfect alignment with the intake boots and manifolds and are within the tolerance for lean angle. I've got huge Mikunis on my H2's that are much more extreme. As the floats are round, they will act upon the float valve at the same time as if level. I do lose some closing pressure since the lift is not entirely vertical, but still plenty of pressure to seal the fuel valve.
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